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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate familiar high-end names. Yet, tucked near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has left the owners totally surprised.

“I am completely astonished,” states a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble place securing such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, toastier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.